TL;DR
Arches is an incredible place that feels terribly lonely yet oddly alive at the same time. The sky never looks so blue as it does over Utah. The quietness of the desert gives the greatest sense of peace. Definitely do the Primitive Trail for a longer, less crowded hike around the arches. Take the guided tour of the Fiery Furnace. Do the Delicate Arch hike either very early in the morning or later in the day to avoid the queue. Utah in October has the best weather.
Where we camped: Devil’s Garden Where we hiked: Devil’s Garden Primitive Trail When we went: October 2014 What you should read: Desert Solitaire by Edward Abbey
Thoughts
“Men come and go, cities rise and fall, whole civilizations appear and disappear-the earth remains, slightly modified. The earth remains, and the heartbreaking beauty where there are no hearts to break….I sometimes choose to think, no doubt perversely, that man is a dream, thought an illusion, and only rock is real. Rock and sun.” – Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire
I could quote Edward Abbey all day. He had it right. Its why I can’t have a good feel for a place until I walk through it, on it, over it. It also puts everything in perspective. These rocks are so huge, so old, so still. What am I? I’m a spec, a blip in time. These stones have stood for ages and will continue standing long after I am gone. I love hiking. It gives you the opportunity to get out there. Stand on rocks. Feel small. Feel mortality. And feel very much alive.
This year I just had it in my head that I had to go to Arches National Park. I’m from California. The parks I’m used to are lush forests with large granite cliffs. Oceans and lakes of all smatterings of blues and greens. So the prospect of a red rock desert seemed so different and enticing.
We rolled into Devil’s Garden Campground early in the day. It’s the only car camping site in the park and is situated right next to Devil’s Garden, the home of many famous arches. But I’ll step back for a second. The entrance to Arches is right off the highway outside Moab. Once through the gate, you drive up a steep set of switch backs until you’re out of the canyon. Then you’re treated to a scenic drive through the park since the campground is set in the back. Past the great wall, passed balanced rock, passed the Fiery Furnace. All signs of good things to come.
We set up camp then set off toward Devil’s Garden, home to a variety of arches. It’s a easy paved trail that meanders between red rock fins to little viewpoints of several arches. Our happy coincidence was taking the primitive trail. This takes you onto a narrow dirt trail that takes a longer loop around to Dark Angel and Double O arch. It’s fantastic. The views are great, no crowds, as well as some scrambling. We couldn’t have been happier. Even enjoyed the sunset and did some unplanned night hiking. But I was able to see a great view of Landscape Arch against the night sky.
“Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread. A civilization which destroys what little remains of the wild, the spare, the original, is cutting itself off from its origins and betraying the principle of civilization itself.” – Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire
My apologies for not having taken better photos of the place above, the Fiery Furnace. I highly recommend going on a tour if you make it to Arches. Day 2 in Arches started off with packing up camp and heading to the Fiery Furnace down the road. The Fiery Furnace is a wonder all in its own. I say take a tour because its a sandstone labyrinth. The park encourages first timers to take the ranger led tour unless you’re adept at navigating. Its not just any tour either. It requires a certain amount of physical exertion as you make your way through cracks and scramble over rocks. But well worth it. There are arches in there that you won’t be able to see otherwise plus a ton of cryptosoil and native plants. Like the rest of Arches, the thing you start to notice is how quiet it is. There aren’t many animals out and about. There is no running water. You are the only one making any noise. Its very different from the coastal mountains I grew up with. It peaceful yet there’s an uncertainty to it. An isolating feeling. Solitude.
The tour lasted about 4 hours due to the caution the lead ranger took teaching everyone the right techniques to safely pass certain obstacles. He was very thorough and knew the area and ecosystem very well. Just as I would expect of a NPS ranger. After the tour we headed to our last site at Arches, Delicate Arch. Probably the more iconic arch and the one everyone has a shot of.
As beautiful as it is, the crowds and people lining up to take pictures with it is a bit unsettling. Perhaps that isn’t the right word. It makes it feel like Disney Land. And I understand that its what we want; more people supporting and enjoying our parks. But I can only hope that the people visiting and taking pictures appreciate it for its beauty and wonder. That they embrace the emptiness, the simplicity of the smooth, shaped rock. That they see this solid form that has stood throughout time. That they enjoy one of God’s gifts to us. God made a beautiful world. It’s up to us to preserve it and keep it that way.
Thus ended our time in Arches National Park. It was more than I ever dreamed it would be. And unlike other places I visit, I could actually see myself living there. Not simply because I enjoyed my time there, but for some other reason, an intangible one. I hope I get the chance to go back one day.
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