TL;DR
Upper Yosemite Falls trail is a real leg burner but a great day hike. The trail runs up on the left side of the falls. Start early so you’re not getting blasted by the sun on the switchbacks and make sure to bring a lunch. There’s only a few points on the trail you actually have a nice view of the falls and the valley. After that you won’t see much of it until you’re on top. Camp 4 is a great campsite if you’re up for making new friends. The setup of the grounds groups 10 or so people together to share common tables and fire pit.
Where we camped: Camp 4 When we went: February 14, 2015
Thoughts
My dad backpacked when he was younger but we never did much as a family. I had one awful camping experience on Mt Diablo and that was it until I got to college. The reason it was awful was because of my allergies so the whole trip I was sneezing and really itchy. Not a great first impression of camping. The first time I ever went to Yosemite I must have been around 8 or 9 years old. We didn’t camp but we did some hiking around the valley floor. I distinctly remember doing the Lower Yosemite Falls trail and getting to swim somewhere above the falls. I asked my dad if we could go to the top and he said no, that it was pretty far and didn’t have a good view. Unabashed, I just remember how huge everything was. The looming granite walls, the rocks, the trees, the vast open spaces. Its at that scale where you can still look at it with the same perspective as when you were younger. No matter how big you get, everything there is larger than life.
This trip, I wanted to do Upper Yosemite Falls, even if it wasn’t that great, I wanted to experience it for myself. The upper falls hike is a 7.2 miles round trip with 2700 feet of elevation gain. It’s basically switch backs all the way up and all the way back down. We started the hike in the late morning. The trail-head starts in the parking lot for Camp 4. 5 minutes in and we were already in the sun. The trail has almost constant sun exposure from the early morning to mid-afternoon.
The sun makes it great for photos but it does get awfully warm. Middle of winter and it felt like 80 degrees in the sun. There isn’t any water access on this trail until you reach the stream that feeds the top of the falls. About a mile up you’ll start to get glimpses of the falls as well as Half Dome and the valley. It had rained recently so the falls were going strong. It’s crazy to think that so much water is constantly running over those rocks. Every second, endlessly, maybe less during the summer, but then increases again in the winter. “All rivers flow into the sea but the sea is never full” (Ecclesiastes 1:7) Always flowing, never ceasing until nature runs its course. How incredibly beautiful are the things that we can’t control.
You won’t be able to go down to the bottom of the falls during the winter. There’s too much water and the rocks are slick. Believe me, we tried. This photo was taken at the closest switch back to the falls. We climbed about half way down and it felt like we were in the middle of a rainstorm. After this point you go away from the falls continue with the switchbacks.
At the top, there is a somewhat sketchy overlook at the edge of the falls. Not a great place for children, and requires a bit of balance. There are some rails but they look like they’re from the 50’s and there are some missing. Was quite a view though.
We took a lunch break at the top and relaxes upstream of the falls. You can continue on from this point to North Dome or Yosemite Point. But I felt accomplished and was beat from all those switchbacks. It was wonderful to relax and layout in the sun. D wanted to go in the water…he stuck his leg in and it instantly went numb. If you’ve ever been in Lake Tahoe during the winter, this is colder. Felt pretty refreshing to splash on your face though. The hike was grueling but well worth it in my opinion and I’m glad I got to do it. I feel like a hike could never be a waste of time. You’re outside, breathing fresh air and enjoying a place that’s so dynamic and huge. It will always be an adventure.
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